Monday, August 15

Try a Linked Stitch to Close the Gap Between a Turning Chain and Double Crochet Stitch

No Gaps Along the Sides of Double Crochet Rows
Crocheters who don't like that gap or hole that happens at the start of every row of double crochet stitches {UK: treble} have developed their own favorite ways to lessen or eliminate it. These handy tricks tend to get buried in crochet books, if they are mentioned at all. It was also not so easy for me to find them around the 'net. For more, please see issue #25 of my Crochet Inspirations newsletter.


This post will focus on how to do the method that I like the best for my Lunasa Seasonal Lace Bag, with step by step photos below. Note that for Jempool and other planned pooling with crochet, several methods may be better depending on how much of a color you have to work with at each row end.

For a project like Lunasa I chain-3 as usual to begin a new row of double crochet stitches. I link the first double crochet to the chain-3. This little trick will be familiar to anyone who has already learned how to do linked double crochet stitches. 


I like it because no holes will show along each side edge of the purse after seaming. It creates a solid, sturdy, stable selvage-type edge for rows of double crochet {UK: treble}. It's perfect for the purse I'm crocheting.


You can link to the turning chain more than one way. The way shown here is the most compact. (For clothing I'd use a more flexible one and a looser gauge).

All photos can be viewed at full resolution in this photo set. (Click on the photo in the set to see more viewing choices at the top of the image.)
Step 1: Chain 3 (turning chain)


Step 1: Chain 3 to begin a new row of dc, as usual.


Step 2: Turn counterclockwise so that the
backs of the chains face you
Step 2: Turn Counterclockwise {UK anti-clockwise}. 
If you're crocheting left handed, turn clockwise. Either way, the back bump of each chain should be facing you for this method. 
Note: I've noticed that the turning direction creates a distinctly different variations for this linked edge. See swatches in the bottom left column of newsletter.
Step 3: Insert hook in 2nd chain






Step 3: For this project, I'm inserting the hook under *two* loops of the 2nd chain. The edge comes out compacted this way, however, it's more common with linked stitches to work them into one loop, not two. 
In fact, the straightest edge of all happens for me when I link to only the leftmost front loop of the chain (instead of including that middle "bump" of chain with it.) If I didn't want such a dense selvage for the sides of this bag, I would insert the hook under one loop of the chain only. 
I make a point of turning my work so that the backs of the turning chains face me because I find it slightly easier to work my last stitch into the top of the turning chain if the front of it is facing me in the next row. Make sense? (You may prefer to work into another loop or two of the chain, and to turn your work a different way.)
Step 4A


Step 4A: Yarn Over Hook.
Step 4B: Pull up loop in the second chain.






Step 4B: Pull loop through second chain. The two loops on the hook now count as the two loops you would have on your hook if you were about to make a standard double crochet stitch {UK Treble}. No need to yarn over to begin the dc {UK tr}.
Seeing it this way has helped me to remember how to do linked stitches. For example, if I wanted to do a linked treble {UK: double treble}, I'd make sure I had 3 loops on my hook instead of 2, as if I had yarned-over twice.
Step 5: Pull up loop in next stitch.


Step 5: Pull up loop in next dc of row. For this purse edge version, the turning chain-3 counts as the first dc of the row, so you skip the very first dc along the edge, and work your linked dc in the next stitch. Therefore, your last dc of each row will be worked into the top of the turning chain.
Step 6: Linked dc almost completed.




Step 6: Yarn over and pull through: just as with regular ol' dc, yarn over your hook and pull loop through two loops on your hook. Two loops remain.
Step 7: The "Beginning Linked Dc" (its official name)
is now complete.






Step 7: Yarn over and pull through last two loops on the hook. Your first dc is linked to the turning chain-3. (For the Lunasa bag the rest of the row is plain double crochets, not linked doubles.)


You can apply this strategy to any tall stitch. For a row of trebles {UK: double trebles}, chain 4 for the turning chain. Pull up a loop in the second chain and another in the third chain. You'll have *three* loops on your hook, just as if you'd yarned over twice to begin a treble.

24 comments:

  1. This is such a wonderful tip! Thank you so much for sharing it in your newsletter and your blog! ~Kelly

    ReplyDelete
  2. Always read you newsletters with great interest. Thanks you for all the smart tips and tricks. This is my favourite so far. I love it - thank you very much

    Kind regard,
    Anne (Norwegian crocheter)

    ReplyDelete
  3. I'm going to try this on the next project. I'd seen it a long time ago but never paid attention to it. I don't like the tch spaces either!

    ReplyDelete
  4. I'm swatching with this, and it does close the gap nicely. I find I have to be careful where I insert the hook in the top of the previous turning chain at the end of the row. It's not a wide-open space anymore! Looks like just under the 3rd (top) chain.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Wow! This is such a wonderful tutorial! Thank you so much for posting it.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Fantastic! Thanks you for share!

    ReplyDelete
  7. Finally, a solution to that ugly problem of holes! Thanks

    ReplyDelete
  8. This makes so much sense and it's simply magnificent!! I can't wait to try!! thanks!

    ReplyDelete
  9. I'm so glad this blog post helps other crocheters!

    ReplyDelete
  10. I've been crocheting for 50 years and have never seen this done. Thanks for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  11. I just discovered your Pallas scarf on Ravelry. Well, to tell the truth, I just found Ravelry! Saw your scarf and bought the pattern immediately. It's beautiful! Then I saw the fsc, and had all kinds of trouble. I finally found the tutorial on your website. I got it right away. I decided to look at the tutorials for other stitches, and was intrigued by the hdc "tricking" me. Yes, I got the wrong answer--I thought it was 4 stitches. Then I found the one on linking the dc so you don't end up with a hole, which has always annoyed me but I never knew how to fix it. The scarf has worked up beautifully and I learned some tips to make my work look more professional. (Wow, if it looks this good now, what did all the other stuff that I gave as gifts look like!!) Thank you so much for posting your tutorials. I am now a faithful follower!

    Have you ever given any thought to creating a hat to go with with the Pallas scarf, or do you already have a pattern for one?

    Lora

    ReplyDelete
  12. I just found your Pallas scarf on Ravelry. Actually, I just found Ravelry! I bought the pattern immediately (plan on making a few Christmas presents!) Then I saw the fsc and I was stuck. I tried just a regular chain but it didn't look as good. I tried and tried for more than a day, then finally looked at your tutorials. I got it right away! So then I got curious and started looking at tutorials for other stitches. I saw the hdc tutorial and answered the question wrong (I said 4 stitches), then found the one on the dc leaving the hole at the beginning of the rows. That was great. That hole always annoyed me but I never could fix it.

    The scarf turned out beautifully and with a very professional look. My goodness, if my newly-learned tips and tricks make everything I do now look so much better, what did all the other stuff that I gave as gifts look like?! How embarrassing! You have another faithful follower! Thank you so much for the help. Please keep it coming!

    Have you ever thought about a hat pattern to go with the Pallas scarf? Or is there already a pattern?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi Lora, I'm so glad you've been exploring my blog and benefiting from things you've found here :-)

      I did indeed think about a hat to go with the Pallas Scarf. When I made one to match the scarf, it didn't look the same once it was stretched around the head! It lost the nice ribbed-looking lines of the scarf. I had no alternate ideas for a hat at the time, so I've shelved the idea for now.

      Delete
  13. Lovely blog with lots of great work. Enjoy exploring your works.

    ReplyDelete
  14. Thank you for your kind words about my blog!

    ReplyDelete
  15. Hi, thanks for the tutorial.
    Does that linked dc count as a dc? So what you have there is 2 DC stitches; is that correct? Or is that considered 1 DC?

    ReplyDelete
  16. I count it as 2 dc stitches, because the linked dc is in the second dc of the row, and that one is always counted. And the turning chain usually counts as a stitch in dc rows, so I count it as a stitch also.
    Good question! Thanks for asking.

    ReplyDelete
  17. That's awesome I can't wait to use it. Love your tutorial. I'm gonna be a follower.
    Thanks so much...pat

    ReplyDelete
  18. Thanks for your ideas, I love visiting you!

    ReplyDelete

On-topic questions are welcome!