Slip Stitch Short Rows: Basic Tutorial

The first row along the bottom is the longest (24 sts).
Each "row" or "rib" of slip stitches is really 2 rows.
The top row pair is the shortest (3 sts).

There's more than one way to crochet short rows. Click here: free crochet pattern -- for a scarf that uses the method that I'll describe here.


The stitch matters. I'm really enjoying using slip stitches worked in the back loop. It's also called "slip stitch rib" or "back loop slip stitch." I abbreviate it BLOslst. [2018 update: I've come to prefer Bss.]

Photo #2: This is what the other side looks like.

Each "rib" of this stitch looks like 1 row, but it's really a pair of rows.  I like starting with a long row pair and then making shorter and shorter row pairs. One benefit is that the foundation row stays straighter this way.

Photo #3: two "wedges" of stacked short rows.

When you start with longer rows and then crochet shorter rows onto them, the ends of the short row look like a slope of bumps. (See top two photos.)

At my other blog you can see what it looks like when you crochet a long row into the ends of the short rows. 

Photo #4: Slip Slope Scarf in progress,
with stitch markers. The first 2 row pairs
of a new "wedge" show at the top. 

You can make them blend in or stand out. 


Either way, they flex, drape, and stretch nicely when you use this stitch and a larger crochet hook. Here I'm using a 6.5mm hook (K/US10.5) with worsted weight wool yarn (a.k.a. "#4 Medium Weight" or "Aran" or "Afghan weight").


Starting with a long row pair and then making each row pair shorter and shorter results in a wedge shape. Notice that each wedge has a sloping side and a straight side. 

Photo #5: One more BLOslst in that last
marked stitch will complete this row.

In the third photo, a second wedge is stacked onto the slope of the first wedge. If this rib stitch didn't look almost identical on both sides, it would be easier to see in this photo that the back of the first wedge is facing and the front of the second one is facing in this third photo.

Now for some impromptu iPhone photos while I finish the Slip Slope Scarf. 

You might not need stitch markers at all. 

Photo #6: Row is now complete. Ch 1, turn.

I've added them in these photos because in the pattern I recommend them to people who haven't done much slip stitch crochet just until they can easily recognize the last stitch of every row. 
(Just add a marker to the front loop of the first BLOslst you make in each new row. It's worth the trouble, I promise.)

In photos #5 and 6, I want you to compare how it looks when you have one stitch left to work into at the end of a row along the straight side of the wedge.

#7: New row begun. 

In photo #7, I chained 1 and turned, and then worked a BLOslst in each of the first four slip stitches. I placed a marker in the front loop of the first slip stitch of this new row. This row will be shorter; see photo #8.

Photo #9 gives you a bigger picture of how the sloped side is developing, while along the left is a straight edge--the stitches are only decreased when you reach the sloping edge. Make sense?

#8: I've worked across the new row to the last 3 slip
stitches of it. I'm going to ch 1 and turn,
leaving those last 3 unworked.

Photos #10 & 11 give another big picture: the current wedge has been completed: the last row pair has only 3 stitches in it!

#9: I chained 1 and turned, leaving the last 3 of the
stitches unworked. In this photo I've already crocheted
2 BLOslsts of this new row, and marked the first one.

And finally, photo #12 shows you how the stitch marker come in handy when you crochet a long row to begin another wedge. 

#10: A completed wedge. 

Actually, I think most people will not need the markers for this because you know you need to find three stitches to work into as you do the long row, and I think this makes them easy to find. But perhaps the markers help point out the stitches, making the photos easier to understand?

🚀This Slip Slope pattern was an exciting discovery that ended up catapulting me into a whole series of slip stitch crochet designs and classes!

❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️

#11: Reverse side of photo #9.

#12: Long row of next wedge has been
crocheted into each of the 3 unworked stitches of every short row.

Try a Linked Stitch to Close the Gap Between a Turning Chain and Double Crochet Stitch

No Gaps Along the Sides of Double Crochet Rows

Crocheters who don't like that gap or hole that happens at the start of every row of double crochet stitches {UK: treble} have developed their own favorite ways to lessen or eliminate it. These handy tricks tend to get buried in crochet books, if they are mentioned at all. It was also not so easy for me to find them around the 'net. For more, please see issue #25 of my Crochet Inspirations newsletter.


This post will focus on how to do the method that I like the best for my Lunasa Seasonal Lace Bag, with step by step photos below. Note that for Jempool and other planned pooling with crochet, several methods may be better depending on how much of a color you have to work with at each row end.

For a project like Lunasa I chain-3 as usual to begin a new row of double crochet stitches. I link the first double crochet to the chain-3. This little trick will be familiar to anyone who has already learned how to do linked double crochet stitches. 


I like it because no holes will show along each side edge of the purse after seaming. It creates a solid, sturdy, stable selvage-type edge for rows of double crochet {UK: treble}. It's perfect for the purse I'm crocheting.


You can link to the turning chain more than one way. The way shown here is the most compact. (For clothing I'd use a more flexible one and a looser gauge).

All photos can be viewed at full resolution in this photo set. (Click on the photo in the set to see more viewing choices at the top of the image.)

Step 1: Chain 3 (turning chain)

Step 1: Chain 3 to begin a new row of dc, as usual.

Step 2: Turn counterclockwise so that the
backs of the chains face you

Step 2: Turn Counterclockwise {UK anti-clockwise}. 
If you're crocheting left handed, turn clockwise. Either way, the back bump of each chain should be facing you for this method. 
Note: I've noticed that the turning direction creates a distinctly different variations for this linked edge. See swatches in the bottom left column of newsletter.

Step 3: Insert hook in 2nd chain

Step 3: For this project, I'm inserting the hook under *two* loops of the 2nd chain. The edge comes out compacted this way, however, it's more common with linked stitches to work them into one loop, not two. 
In fact, the straightest edge of all happens for me when I link to only the leftmost front loop of the chain (instead of including that middle "bump" of chain with it.) If I didn't want such a dense selvage for the sides of this bag, I would insert the hook under one loop of the chain only. 
I make a point of turning my work so that the backs of the turning chains face me because I find it slightly easier to work my last stitch into the top of the turning chain if the front of it is facing me in the next row. Make sense? (You may prefer to work into another loop or two of the chain, and to turn your work a different way.)

Step 4A

Step 4A: Yarn Over Hook.

Step 4B: Pull up loop in the second chain.

Step 4B: Pull loop through second chain. The two loops on the hook now count as the two loops you would have on your hook if you were about to make a standard double crochet stitch {UK Treble}. No need to yarn over to begin the dc {UK tr}.
Seeing it this way has helped me to remember how to do linked stitches. For example, if I wanted to do a linked treble {UK: double treble}, I'd make sure I had 3 loops on my hook instead of 2, as if I had yarned-over twice.

Step 5: Pull up loop in next stitch.

Step 5: Pull up loop in next dc of row. For this purse edge version, the turning chain-3 counts as the first dc of the row, so you skip the very first dc along the edge, and work your linked dc in the next stitch. Therefore, your last dc of each row will be worked into the top of the turning chain.

Step 6: Linked dc almost completed.

Step 6: Yarn over and pull through: just as with regular ol' dc, yarn over your hook and pull loop through two loops on your hook. Two loops remain.

Step 7: The "Beginning Linked Dc" (its official name)
is now complete.

Step 7: Yarn over and pull through last two loops on the hook. Your first dc is linked to the turning chain-3. (For the Lunasa bag the rest of the row is plain double crochets, not linked doubles.)


You can apply this strategy to any tall stitch. For a row of trebles {UK: double trebles}, chain 4 for the turning chain. Pull up a loop in the second chain and another in the third chain. You'll have *three* loops on your hook, just as if you'd yarned over twice to begin a treble.

Crocheting a Triangular Shawl Point-to-Point

The Ennis Shawl pattern was first published in
Interweave Crochet Magazine

I've published two crochet patterns so far of triangular shawls and scarves that are crocheted from one point to the other, and I have at least five more on the way. [Update: I'm up to eleven as of 2018]

I'm a big fan of this way to crochet a "baktus"-style (wide, shallow triangular scarf) and other triangular wraps. I'm writing this blog post for the crocheters who have never made a shawl this way and who may find it puzzling at first.

Islander: Its long narrow
corners can be easily tied

The two published designs so far are Islander (Tunisian crochet) and Frostyflakes (regular crochet). When I get questions about these patterns, it's because the look of their set-up rows confuses crocheters, even if they're making them correctly. 


Crocheting point to point is a new experience. It seems to be a less common type of construction. All you have to do is expect your set-up rows to look unfamiliar, and before you know it, the choppy seas will turn calm and it will be smooth sailing. So smooth, in fact, that you'll pick up a lot of speed and keep thinking "just one more row!"

1-skein Frostyflakes

Look closely at these next two photos. See the long straight side across the top? (In the red one it is the neck edge.) Now look at each end of this long straight side. These two corners of the triangle are the "points." You start at one point and finish at the other point. 

Imagine what the first few rows of these scarves might have looked like when I began them. You can see why some crocheters could think they're doing something wrong.

The set-up rows for a point-to-point wrap can look odd for two reasons:

Swatch worked "point to point" 
(upper corner to upper corner)

1. It's a new experience even for a crocheter who has tried traditional "corner-start" projects. Most of these (often called "Diagonal Stitch") increase on both ends of the rows to create a center point of a symmetrical triangle shape. (After awhile, one decreases instead of increases, and ends up with a square dishcloth or rectangular afghan.)  

Frostyflakes: See the straight
 edge, worked even?

Point-to-point is a little different because you only increase along one side of the triangle. This can cause the first 5 rows or so to look odd, if you're used to traditional "corner-start" or "corner to corner".

2. It's a new experience even for a crocheter who has made triangular wraps that start along the longest top edge, or grow outward from the center of the top edge, or start at the bottom center point. This is because another way to think of "Point-to-Point" construction is "Side-to-Side." When you wear your finished point-to-point shawl, the rows will run vertically from its top (at your neck) to its bottom edge (near your waist or elbow). 

If one were to make a rectangular wrap from side to side, one might say it's worked "from one short edge to the other." A "side to side cardigan" means that the foundation row runs vertically along the button band, or along a side seam. 

The only difference between point-to-point and side-to-side is that with point-to-point you start with almost no foundation row, whereas with side-to-side you start with a longer, more familiar and recognizable foundation row. This is another reason that the first 5 rows or so can look odd, if you're not used to it.

The self-striping yarn helps to make
the side-to-side rows obvious

Crocheting point to point is actually easy because you're only ever increasing or decreasing along one edge of your shawl. The opposite edge is worked even. 

It's easiest of all with Tunisian crochet because you don't turn your work. I prefer to do increases or decreases along the right edge of my Tunisian rows (the start of the Forward Passes) because Tunisian crochet is naturally suited to this. 

Crocheting point to point is fun because you can close your eyes and pick any yarn from your stash. You don't have to worry about running out of yarn, or finding a yarn with the right thickness. 

Then, set up your starting corner: these set up rows are also the shortest rows, so they work up quickly. Reward yourself with chocolate if it's your first time, and then you'll be on your way to crocheting at your peak speed. Once your starting corner is set up, it's usually easy to remember the stitch pattern; you can avoid reading the instructions for each row until you're ready to begin the decrease rows.

This is Islander's center bottom corner. Just switch
from making increase rows to making decrease rows.

When I design a new point-to-point shawl, I'm in complete control of how much yarn I'll need as I go--especially if I edge it as I go too. I simply start decreasing when I've use half of the yarn I wish to, or when the center row is the length I like for the deepest center point of the triangle.

Islander is wide enough to wear as a vest, 
withlong points tied at the back waist.

Crocheting point to point is versatile. If you wish to try designing your own, it's a great way to create a wide, shallow triangle, which often has a more modern or updated look, and is more flattering on some folks. A bonus of such an oblique angle is that the two points are elongated and skinny and can easily be used as ties (such as for a sarong or head scarf). I found about seven different ways to wear the Islander Wrap because of this feature!

Frostyflakes in DesigningVashti Lotus yarn

Knots in Yarn: Options

Often, a skein of yarn comes from the mill packing a surprise: knots with the ends trimmed too close. The occasional mill-tied knot is a necessary evil of the yarn spinning process, and can really cause problems while crocheting or knitting, especially if the yarn is slippery or the stitches are lacy or loose.

Good News! I've published Ennis, with a chart too.

I encountered this most recently with the silkiest bamboo yarn I've ever used, called SWTC Bamboo. [UPDATE: I've since published the pattern in both this yarn and DesigningVashti Lotus yarn—which by the way has zero-to-1 knots per ball.] 

The silky ends I wove in have stayed put so far.

Yarn Knot Best Practices

My first choice for a project like this would be to rip out the existing row to the start of it, cut the yarn, and reattach it without the mill-tied knot in it. that way the new knot is at the edge. 


A possible alternative to ripping out the partial row is to cut the knot out of the yarn, then re-knot it a bit loosely, leaving yarn ends about 5 inches long each. 


I've had good luck separating the plies of the yarn and weaving in each ply separately using a sharp needle so that one ply is threaded through the center core of nearby strands. I'd thread a different ply through different nearby strands, so that a thickened area is not created. 

About the yarns shown: Far left is DesigningVashti Lotus (colors Satin Grey and Lavender Ice). The aqua blue one is Interweave Crochet Magazine's choice for their version of this pattern. The orange was from my own yarn stash; both are SWTC Bamboo.

This works fine for Lotus. For SWTC Bamboo, though, it's a fine-knit tube, not twisted plies to be separated. What's working instead is to use a sharper yarn needle to pierce through to the center of a strand and hide a yarn end in it.


If the yarn can be felted here's another option. Yarn that is at least 50% wool, cashmere, or alpaca,  and is not superwash, will likely felt. This makes felt-joining possible. (I don't have much experience with this.) It could leave a thickened area like the Russian join does sometimes. If it's felted together really well, it could be trimmed thinner, but might be a bit stiffer than the rest of the stitches. Depends on the particular project.


So far, weaving in the separated plies of the yarn ends with a sharp needle has worked well for me, especially with silkier yarns that would otherwise work themselves loose over time. 
A special thank you to Anne!

Which Foundation Stitch? and Why?

I researched 43 crochet stitch dictionaries and basic crochet how-to books to find out more about crochet foundation stitches (alternatives to starting a crochet project with a foundation chain). For a 2014 update, scroll to the end of this post.

Top to Bottom: Double Chain (dch); "Foundation Slip Stitch" (fslst); Foundation Single Crochet (fsc)

You can read a summary of this research in my Crochet Inspirations Newsletter issue #18, "Deep Crochet Research" (available online for free here. Scroll down to the bottom to sign up for a free subscription.)


Above is a visual comparison of the three slimmest, simplest chainless foundations that I know of. They are all stretchier and easier to work into than foundation chains. (I've omitted fancier decorative ones such as picot foundations.) 


What follows is a photo tutorial for making each of them: the classic dch, the dark horse fslst, and the popular fsc. By doing it this way I hope to make it very clear how these three overlap yet differ in a few key ways. It's easy to confuse them as being the same thing. This actually keeps us from recognizing that we have more choices in how we start a new crochet project than we thought!


(Below, the step-by-step photos may look a bit jumbled on some people's screens. To view them enlarged in high resolution, and in their original order with full descriptions, you might prefer to see them in this photo set.)


From my research I found that the top/yellow stitch is traditionally called "Double Chain" (occasionally, Double Foundation Chain, Double Chain Stitch, etc). It is consistently abbreviated "dch". By traditionally I mean that I found this stitch with this name and abbreviation in over half of the 43 books, dating from the 1800's to 2010. (In the rest of the books I found no alternative to a foundation chain at all.)


The bottom/blue stitch is much newer than the dch and seems to be gaining widespread acceptance, especially on the internet. I found it in a smattering of books from 2005 to the present; it also appeared online in 1998, thanks to Mary Rhodes. This stitch is by now almost always called "Foundation Single Crochet" and abbreviated "fsc." The ultimate source on it is Marty Miller's article, "Get in the Loop: Foundation Stitches" in the Spring 2007 issue of Interweave Crochet magazine.


The green stitch in the center is my personal favorite of these three choices. I'm not the first to use it, but this exact stitch does not appear in any of the books I have. It simply combines what I think is the best of the dch and the fsc.

The Work at Home Vest

I wrestled with what to name it. "Foundation slip stitch" (fslst) has its pros & cons as do all other names I considered, such as "alt fsc" and "extended slst." I'm going with fslst because in a "family" of foundation stitches like the fsc (and taller versions such as fdc, ftr, and so on), it's a logical name for a slimmer option. Sometimes the fsc is a bit too beefy to substitute for a plain foundation chain. 

As you can see in the top photo, the fslst is the slimmest of the three. It is without a doubt the one perfect foundation for my Work@Home Vest neckline. 

Step 1

Here are the instructions to go with each step-by-step photo.


Step 1: 
To begin the dch, the fslst, and the fsc, chain 2.


Step 2: 
For dch (left/yellow): insert hook in ONE top loop of 2nd ch from hook.

Step 2

For fslst (center/green): insert hook in TWO loops of 2nd ch from hook.
For fsc (far right/blue): insert hook in TWO loops of 2nd ch from hook.


Step 3: 
Yarn over hook and pull up a loop: 2 loops on hook.

Step 3

Step 4:
For dch: Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook: first dch stitch made.
For fslst: Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook: first fslst stitch made.

Step 4

For fsc: Yarn over and pull through ONE loop on hook: 2 loops remain on hook. This chain stitch forms the base, or foundation, of a single crochet (sc) that will be created next. For crocheters new to the fsc, it helps to pinch this chain just made. Now yarn over and pull through both loops on hook: sc made.


Step 5:

Step 5

To make the next dch: insert hook under the ONE strand along the left side (if you're crocheting right handed) of dch just made, yarn over and pull up a loop.


To make the next fslst: insert hook under the TWO strands along the left side (if you're crocheting right handed) of fslst just made, yarn over and pull up a loop.


To make the next fsc: insert hook under TWO strands of the base chain (that you are hopefully pinching with your fingers) of fsc just made, yarn over and pull up a loop.

Step 6

Step 6: 
To complete the dch: Yarn over and pull through BOTH loops on hook. Avoid "yanking" it tight. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for desired number of foundation stitches.


To complete the fslst: Yarn over and pull through BOTH loops on hook. Avoid "yanking" it tight. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for desired number of foundation stitches.


To complete the fsc: Yarn over and pull through ONE loop on hook. Avoid "yanking" it tight. (Pinch this stitch to mark it for yourself that it's where you'll start the next fsc.) Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook to complete the fsc. Repeat Steps 5 and 6 for desired number of foundation stitches.

Update! 

• For Tunisian crochet foundation stitches—and why they're awesome—I blogged a how-to here.
• If you want to learn more about foundation crochet stitches, see my post about Marty Miller's new online crochet class. Great class for all crochet skill levels!