Crocheting a Triangular Shawl Point-to-Point

The Ennis Shawl pattern was first published in
Interweave Crochet Magazine

I've published two crochet patterns so far of triangular shawls and scarves that are crocheted from one point to the other, and I have at least five more on the way. [Update: I'm up to eleven as of 2018]

I'm a big fan of this way to crochet a "baktus"-style (wide, shallow triangular scarf) and other triangular wraps. I'm writing this blog post for the crocheters who have never made a shawl this way and who may find it puzzling at first.

Islander: Its long narrow
corners can be easily tied

The two published designs so far are Islander (Tunisian crochet) and Frostyflakes (regular crochet). When I get questions about these patterns, it's because the look of their set-up rows confuses crocheters, even if they're making them correctly. 


Crocheting point to point is a new experience. It seems to be a less common type of construction. All you have to do is expect your set-up rows to look unfamiliar, and before you know it, the choppy seas will turn calm and it will be smooth sailing. So smooth, in fact, that you'll pick up a lot of speed and keep thinking "just one more row!"

1-skein Frostyflakes

Look closely at these next two photos. See the long straight side across the top? (In the red one it is the neck edge.) Now look at each end of this long straight side. These two corners of the triangle are the "points." You start at one point and finish at the other point. 

Imagine what the first few rows of these scarves might have looked like when I began them. You can see why some crocheters could think they're doing something wrong.

The set-up rows for a point-to-point wrap can look odd for two reasons:

Swatch worked "point to point" 
(upper corner to upper corner)

1. It's a new experience even for a crocheter who has tried traditional "corner-start" projects. Most of these (often called "Diagonal Stitch") increase on both ends of the rows to create a center point of a symmetrical triangle shape. (After awhile, one decreases instead of increases, and ends up with a square dishcloth or rectangular afghan.)  

Frostyflakes: See the straight
 edge, worked even?

Point-to-point is a little different because you only increase along one side of the triangle. This can cause the first 5 rows or so to look odd, if you're used to traditional "corner-start" or "corner to corner".

2. It's a new experience even for a crocheter who has made triangular wraps that start along the longest top edge, or grow outward from the center of the top edge, or start at the bottom center point. This is because another way to think of "Point-to-Point" construction is "Side-to-Side." When you wear your finished point-to-point shawl, the rows will run vertically from its top (at your neck) to its bottom edge (near your waist or elbow). 

If one were to make a rectangular wrap from side to side, one might say it's worked "from one short edge to the other." A "side to side cardigan" means that the foundation row runs vertically along the button band, or along a side seam. 

The only difference between point-to-point and side-to-side is that with point-to-point you start with almost no foundation row, whereas with side-to-side you start with a longer, more familiar and recognizable foundation row. This is another reason that the first 5 rows or so can look odd, if you're not used to it.

The self-striping yarn helps to make
the side-to-side rows obvious

Crocheting point to point is actually easy because you're only ever increasing or decreasing along one edge of your shawl. The opposite edge is worked even. 

It's easiest of all with Tunisian crochet because you don't turn your work. I prefer to do increases or decreases along the right edge of my Tunisian rows (the start of the Forward Passes) because Tunisian crochet is naturally suited to this. 

Crocheting point to point is fun because you can close your eyes and pick any yarn from your stash. You don't have to worry about running out of yarn, or finding a yarn with the right thickness. 

Then, set up your starting corner: these set up rows are also the shortest rows, so they work up quickly. Reward yourself with chocolate if it's your first time, and then you'll be on your way to crocheting at your peak speed. Once your starting corner is set up, it's usually easy to remember the stitch pattern; you can avoid reading the instructions for each row until you're ready to begin the decrease rows.

This is Islander's center bottom corner. Just switch
from making increase rows to making decrease rows.

When I design a new point-to-point shawl, I'm in complete control of how much yarn I'll need as I go--especially if I edge it as I go too. I simply start decreasing when I've use half of the yarn I wish to, or when the center row is the length I like for the deepest center point of the triangle.

Islander is wide enough to wear as a vest, 
withlong points tied at the back waist.

Crocheting point to point is versatile. If you wish to try designing your own, it's a great way to create a wide, shallow triangle, which often has a more modern or updated look, and is more flattering on some folks. A bonus of such an oblique angle is that the two points are elongated and skinny and can easily be used as ties (such as for a sarong or head scarf). I found about seven different ways to wear the Islander Wrap because of this feature!

Frostyflakes in DesigningVashti Lotus yarn

Knots in Yarn: Options

Often, a skein of yarn comes from the mill packing a surprise: knots with the ends trimmed too close. The occasional mill-tied knot is a necessary evil of the yarn spinning process, and can really cause problems while crocheting or knitting, especially if the yarn is slippery or the stitches are lacy or loose.

Good News! I've published Ennis, with a chart too.

I encountered this most recently with the silkiest bamboo yarn I've ever used, called SWTC Bamboo. [UPDATE: I've since published the pattern in both this yarn and DesigningVashti Lotus yarn—which by the way has zero-to-1 knots per ball.] 

The silky ends I wove in have stayed put so far.

Yarn Knot Best Practices

My first choice for a project like this would be to rip out the existing row to the start of it, cut the yarn, and reattach it without the mill-tied knot in it. that way the new knot is at the edge. 


A possible alternative to ripping out the partial row is to cut the knot out of the yarn, then re-knot it a bit loosely, leaving yarn ends about 5 inches long each. 


I've had good luck separating the plies of the yarn and weaving in each ply separately using a sharp needle so that one ply is threaded through the center core of nearby strands. I'd thread a different ply through different nearby strands, so that a thickened area is not created. 

About the yarns shown: Far left is DesigningVashti Lotus (colors Satin Grey and Lavender Ice). The aqua blue one is Interweave Crochet Magazine's choice for their version of this pattern. The orange was from my own yarn stash; both are SWTC Bamboo.

This works fine for Lotus. For SWTC Bamboo, though, it's a fine-knit tube, not twisted plies to be separated. What's working instead is to use a sharper yarn needle to pierce through to the center of a strand and hide a yarn end in it.


If the yarn can be felted here's another option. Yarn that is at least 50% wool, cashmere, or alpaca,  and is not superwash, will likely felt. This makes felt-joining possible. (I don't have much experience with this.) It could leave a thickened area like the Russian join does sometimes. If it's felted together really well, it could be trimmed thinner, but might be a bit stiffer than the rest of the stitches. Depends on the particular project.


So far, weaving in the separated plies of the yarn ends with a sharp needle has worked well for me, especially with silkier yarns that would otherwise work themselves loose over time. 
A special thank you to Anne!