That Tricky Half Double Crochet Stitch (hdc)

The Half Double crochet stitch (HDC) is known as the Half Treble in the UK and Australia. 

Do you love this stitch too? These four designs make good use of it:

L to R: Orbit Cowl, Half Double Handbag, Bling Bam Bangle for beginners, and Pallas.

Come to think of it, so does the Buffalo Knot Belt!

2018 Update: New crocheters learn how to do the HDC stitch very early on, so it's really only a little bit tricky—in potentially two ways. The original blog post below is about identifying the true last stitch of an HDC row. Before you read it, check that you're doing the correct yarn over for it each time. You do a total of three yarn overs before you've completed each HDC. Some folks mix the yarn overs with "yarn unders".
Now, back to the show.

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The last HDC of a row can fool an unsuspecting crocheter.
When this happens, the stitch count of a row is accidentally increased or decreased, and uneven edges result.

Here are four photos of HDC stitches. In the first one, how many more HDC do I need to complete the row?
a) Two
b) Three
c) Four

If you said two, you've been tricked by the last HDC stitch into thinking that it is the turning chain-2 that began that row. You would accidentally decrease a stitch. If you answered four, you're perceiving the turning chain-2 as being another HDC, and you would accidentally increase a stitch. We don't crochet into the turning chains of HDC rows (though there are occasional exceptions to this rule, and it will be explicitly stated in patterns). If you answered three, you're correct.


In the second photo I've completed all but the last remaining HDC of the same row as in the first photo. To make it more obvious where the last stitch will go, I poked the crochet hook into the space. Can you see the hole that remains from where the hook entered it? (compared to no hole in the first photo.) Anything after that hole is the turning chain-2, and we just ignore it.

Before I explain photos 3 & 4, I have a suggestion that might help. After all, no one will be looking over your shoulder and poking a crochet hook into the last real HDC so that you can tell for sure which is the last stitch.

The guideline I use for identifying the last HDC of a row is: the top two loops of the HDC are not found directly above the rest of the stitch. Instead,

• If you're crocheting in rows and turning to begin each new row, you're looking at the back of each hdc, and its two top loops are found just after the rest of the stitch.
• If you're not turning to begin each new row (such as when working in rounds), you're looking at the front of each hdc, and its two top loops are found just before the rest of the stitch.

Photos 3 & 4 illustrate another tip that might help some crocheters. They are nearly identical to the first two photos. The third photo shows 3 HDC remaining. The fourth photo shows the last HDC after I've poked the crochet hook under the top two loops of it, so that you can see where I'm about to place my last HDC.

The only difference between the second pair of photos and the first pair is the direction I turned my work to begin a new row after chaining 2. I'm crocheting right-handed, and in the first pair of photos I turned my work counterclockwise [a.k.a. anticlockwise] each time I began a new row. In the third and fourth photos, I turned my work clockwise each time I began a new row. (Someone crocheting left-handed would do the opposite.)

Controlling the way the turning chain-2 looks to you as you near the end of the row might help prevent you from being tricked into accidentally increasing or decreasing. To me, in the third photo I'm less likely to think the chain-2 is an HDC. Whereas, in the first photo, I'm tempted to wonder if I should crochet into the top two loops of the chain-2.

Happy crocheting, I hope this helps someone!
Here are two more ways the HDC is the star of the design: Mamruana and Rosebud Argyle.

Tunisian Crochet Basics: How to End a Forward Pass

I use this abbreviation in my Tunisian crochet patterns: endTss. It stands for "ending Tunisian simple stitch." If you are crocheting right-handed, this would be the stitch found along the left edge (and this is reversed if you're left handed).

"Burly" Men's Scarf in Tunisian Simple Stitch

In pattern-writing language endTss is one of several ways to say, "Work the last stitch of each forward pass the usual standard recommended way."

This left edge stitch has a front vertical bar, like the other Tunisian stitches of each row. It also has a few other vertical strands associated with that same stitch. In fact, it has a total of three vertical strands. Why? Because the last Tss of the row is always a chain stitch, and a chain stitch has three strands in it. (Watch how the last stitch is created next time you crochet it and then begin the Return Pass.)

Some crocheters insert the hook under just the one front vertical bar, same as for the rest of the stitches of the row; however, "endTss" means do not do that. Instead, insert the hook under the front vertical bar and one other nearest vertical strand of the stitch. The outermost one is the easiest.

Doing this, instead of picking up only one strand, will give the edge a more finished chained look. This two-strand chained effect is preferable because:

1. It matches the other 3 edges better (especially if you began your project by working into the bottom third loop of the foundation chains).
2. It has a bit more heft, so it helps stabilize and even out the edge more than a lone strand would (it is "self-finishing").
3. If you will be crocheting a border along the edge, it's a better and more pleasant edge to work stitches into.

I'm not aware of it preventing curling though :-)

See the two-strand chained edge of this Burly Scarf?

Dimensional Fabric Paint for Crochet Projects

School Teacher's "Gallon Friend"

'Melted Chocolate' Coffee Cozy

Dimensional fabric paint, also referred to as 3-D fabric paint, comes in a full rainbow of shiny, glittery, iridescent, and matte colors.

I've found that fabric paint is very useful for certain crochet projects.



With fabric paint you can:

• Use on slipper soles for traction
• Reinforce edges (fabric paint is waterproof and more durable than yarn)
• Replace cross stitching and other surface embellishment
• Add permanent facial features that won't pose a choking hazard to very young children
• Add calligraphy-like text and symbols



Valentine (Ravelry Project page)

• Glue yarn ends to secure from view, using a paint that matches the yarn color.

Pokemon Toy blogged here

Sometimes it's simply the best option for embellishing, adding facial details, even text! I love the fine touches embroidery can contribute to crocheted fabric, but some crochet projects need to stand up to hard wear and tear; for example, kitchen items and children's toys.

Crochet stitches themselves are durable, even self-reinforcing! Dimensional fabric paint, which is a machine washable and dryable acrylic polymer, is the only material I've used with crochet that not only holds up as well as crochet, but can even outlast the life of it.

My best advice to you, if you've never tried combining crochet and fabric paint, is to practice, practice, practice on swatches. You have one chance to get it right when applying this paint to crochet!

Plying and Spinning Cotton Crochet Thread

2018 Update: For issue #91 of my crochet newsletter I distilled a lot of my thinking, experiences, and other information about the twist of yarn. Twist—the amount of it and the direction of it—is one of the things that makes crochet thread feel and behave so differently from yarn. Even from lace weight yarn.

An image from Issue 91: Crocheting a Yarn's Twist Energy

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[from 2010] I'm collecting here the notes I've written on this over the years and will eventually polish it up into a real post. For now, it serves as a place to help crocheters choose the best yarns or threads for my crochet patterns. It's also a way to appreciate the key differences between what we call "yarn" vs "thread."

Cotton crochet thread of the same thickness as a yarn is often fundamentally different in its behavior when crocheted. One big reason (among others) for this is its direction of twist. Most crochet thread is "z-twisted" while most yarns are "s-twisted." (There aren't many exceptions!)

I find that this factor makes the biggest difference for most crochet jewelry I design, and when I'm using very tall stitches because of all the yarn overs. Yarn overs either add to a yarn's twist, or subtract from it (i.e. unwind it).

I try to use triple trebles with z-twisted yarns because an s-twisted yarn, if it's not tightly plied, will come untwisted from all the yarn-overs and is unpleasant to work with and look at. Splitty yarn can really slow down working off so many loops with each stitch, and I want the stitches to end up looking good enough to be worth the effort, instead of stringy or unbalanced. (I think this matters more for right handed crocheters than left handed because of the kind of working twist we add/subtract, not sure.)

Cotton Crochet Thread Sizes & Equivalents

Here's how I explain the thread weights in my crochet jewelry patterns, in order of thick thread to thin, with US, UK and AUS terms:

Irish Pearl Cords L to R: Size #5 Lanaknits Hemp,
Size #10 Cebelia, and Size #20 Opera threads.

Size #3 crochet thread is fairly equivalent in thickness to CYCA #2 Fine or US "sport weight" yarns {UK Light DK, AUS 5 Ply}; however, yarns don't necessarily behave like a cotton crochet thread of the same thickness. Jewelry patterns often require crochet thread because of its smooth, finely twisted and plied mercerized cotton, usually “z-twisted.”

Size #5 crochet thread is fairly equivalent in thickness to CYCA #1 Super Fine or US "fingering weight' yarn {UK & AUS 3 Ply or 4 Ply}; however, not all yarns behave like a cotton crochet thread of the same thickness, so substitutions may not work well. Six-strand cotton embroidery floss falls in this size range when crocheted with all 6 strands together.

Size #10 crochet thread: some thread crocheters call this popular size “bedspread weight.”  It's lumped together with thinner thread sizes in the yarn industry’s catch-all “lace weight” category: CYCA #0 Lace weight yarn {UK & AUS ??}; and most lace weight yarns don’t behave like a cotton crochet thread of the same thickness. Most of my thread crochet jewelry is designed for use with smooth, finely twisted and plied mercerized cotton, preferably “z-twisted” (i.e. has a counterclockwise twist).

Dichroic Pendant Cords (pattern is adjusted for different thread weights)

Size #20 crochet thread: As with Size #10 & #30 crochet threads, equivalent yarn weight names are not helpful with these extra fine threads. For the best looking and lasting crochet jewelry, use a “6-cord” thread, sometimes called "cordonnet." It has recently become easier to find in more colors than the traditional white and ecru.

Size #30 crochet thread: As with Size #10 & #20 threads, equivalent yarn weight names are not helpful with these extra fine threads. For the best looking and lasting crochet jewelry, use a “6-cord” thread, although it's difficult to find it in modern colors.

Palmetto Cuffs crocheted of yarns spanning the light sport to
aran (heavy worsted) weight categories.
The yarn of the smallest cuff is equivalent to the thickest thread size #3!